I Eat Sustainable Seafood: Indigenous

On a good day, I leave a restaurant feeling satisfied. "That was a good meal for a good price." It's very rare that I have the sort of day where I leave a restaurant feeling, not only content, but serenely happy and pleased because EVERYTHING WAS GOOD.

WARNING: Lot's of hoity toity verbiage ahead. Also, if you're not willing to drop at least $60 per person on dinner, read no further.

The appetizers, the entrees, the desserts, the wine, the service... all top notch. I am naturally the sort of person who can find criticism in anything. I'd be the snob telling the Unicorn that his horn is slightly crooked and he needed to lose weight. 

Tonight, I have no criticisms. (It could just be the wine, but I don't think two glasses are enough to curb my judgement.) Micah was a fantastic server with well-informed recommendations on both food and wine. Every little thing I had was prepared and cooked to perfection. Nothing over or underdone, nothing out of proportion, no flavors where they didn't belong. I could be nit-picky and say that some of the flavors were more familiar than exciting, but honestly, there is nothing wrong with familiar or traditional flavors, and everything tasted amazing.

Indigenous is located near downtown Sarasota, in a sort of residential neighborhood turned business. As you walk into the restaurant, you realize you are walking into what used to be someone's house. This makes for a delightfully intimate setting, making it easy for good conversation.

TIP: Try to make reservations about a week in advance as space is limited.

My oldest friend in the world, Scott, was my partner in crime for the night. He treated me to a late birthday/Christmas dinner. We started off the night with glasses of Nina Franco Prosecco, and any night that begins with Prosecco is destined to be a good one. 

We were then served the Ocean Crudo: Fresh and sweet cobia with crunchy Beijing peanuts and Sichuan oil on a slice of cucumber. The flavors all very familiar to my Chinese palate, until I got a punch of toasted coriander and Thai chili. I loved it.


For second starter Scott and I ordered the Pork Belly. Top quality Niman Ranch pork over a caramelized onion papusa and red mole, topped off with curtido relish. It was not particularly mind blowing for me personally, but the traditional Latin American flavors were delicious and the pork belly was tender and cooked to perfection.

TIP: I did not get them this time, but the Parmesan Beignets are also a fantastic appetizer and definitely on the MUST TRY list.

The best of meals are incomplete without the perfect wine pairing. Micah suggested the 2014 Shypoke Charbono would be a nice complement to all our dishes. Looking at the diverse array of food choices we ordered, I was skeptical that any one bottle of wine would suffice, however, our server/Somm was absolutely right. The Charbono, full-bodied and smooth, was a delightful companion throughout the entirety of our meal.


At last, the main event! Anyone unfortunate enough to eat with me understands that WE MUST ORDER DIFFERENT THINGS AND SHARE. Knowing me for over 29 years has made Scott an expert at my eating game. We ordered the grouper and the Icelandic char and split them right down the middle.

The Ft. Lauderdale Grouper was thick, meaty, tender, and flaky. It sat on top a bed of zucchini and smoked garlic hash with green beans and shaved brussels sprouts. The whole dish was topped with a generous covering of creamy Sauce Choron, which is a sort of tomatoey Hollandaise. It was comfort food (if one can call something so fancy and expensive comfort food). The only way to describe the feelings it evoked is to say that it was the same feeling you get when Grandma wraps you up in a giant, goose down comforter and you know that you are safe and loved. That's what it did to my tummy.


The other fish entree we chose was the Icelandic Arctic Char topped with tapenade of tomato, Castelvetrano olives, and Meyer lemon zest, and served over a pan-fried quinoa cake and basil puree. It was a joyous symphony in my mouth! The fish was expertly prepared (because Indigenous does not  even know how to do badly prepared fish) and the Italian/Mediterranean flavors were familiar, yet completely new. The quinoa was prepared risotto style, so beautifully textured and packed a lot of flavor.


Finally, it was time for dessert. Though quite humble in presentation, dessert ended up being my favorite course of the night. I looked at the square Butterscotch Brownie topped with a single scoop of ice cream and thought, "Meh. It looks edible." I nearly fell in a dead faint with the first bite. I swooned, and all Scott could do was laugh at me. When I finally came to, I cried out to anyone who would listen, "THIS IS STUPID GOOD!" And it was. The Butterscotch Brownie was not quite the consistency of a brownie, but neither was it completely cake-like. It was something in between. It was more blondie than brownie and had chocolate chips in it. It was doused in a Cafe Bustelo caramel sauce, so it had a delicious note of espresso in it as well. To lighten things up, we also got the Starfruit sorbet. It really captured the beautifully bright, exotic flavor of the starfruit.


One thing that I appreciate greatly is the dedication and work Chef Stephen Phelps puts into, not only his restaurant, but into the cause of promoting seafood sustainability. He participated in preparing lion fish when they were menacing our local reefs, and he is committed to local, seasonal, and conscientious sourcing of ingredients. Like buying a pair of Toms or Bombas socks, you feel good about where your money is going.

If you're going just to fill your stomach, Indigenous is not the place for you. There are much cheaper options out there. If you are looking for masterfully prepared foods and great wine to go with it, this is where you want to be.

Ambience: 8.5/10
Service: 10/10 
Food: 9.5/10
Good for: Dinner Dates and Special Occassions

Ocean Crudo: $15 
Pork Belly: $13
Grouper: Market Price (roughly $30)
Icelandic Char: Market Price (roughly $30)
Butterscotch Chocolate Brownie: $9
Starfruit Sorbet: $6

http://www.indigenoussarasota.com/

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